How2: Travel Guides. #2 Lisbon
The second instalment of our travel guide series HAS to be the hometown, Lisbon. My mum would not be impressed with me if I didn’t give you guys a Lisbon guide - it is her favourite place in the world, and might even be mine. Weirdly enough, Lisbon was my first holiday, as well as mine and Sof’s first holiday together. We were actually meant to be back in Lisbon for my birthday in October, but you know, Miss Rona struck again.
Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world and the second oldest in Europe - after Athens. It is famously known as the “city built on seven hills” (my mum made me add this ‘special’ piece of information), each hill offering different views of the city.
Before I start with my top 10 things to do, I will let you know that I have got approval from the family in London and in Lisbon - their suggestions may just feature (thanks Familia).
Where to stay?
So I have stayed in the centre of Lisbon on Avenida da Liberdade , just outside the rush in Alcantara (a 4 minute drive from central Lisbon) and a 20 minute drive away in Estoril. Now where do you stay? That depends on the holiday you’re going on. If you’re only doing a long weekend away then I recommend Turim Avenida Liberdade Hotel. I stayed here in March last year and it was the perfect location for all tourist stuff - everything was walking distance, I think I got in a cab twice in the week that I was there. If you’re going to enjoy a summer break, then I loved staying in Estoril. It’s a 20 minute drive into Lisbon or a 30 minute scenic train ride along the coast.
My top 10 things to do:
10. Stand in the middle of Praça do Comércio (I know it sounds mad, but the view is worth it)
This is the first thing I do after landing, dropping my suitcases and getting situated. I don’t know what it is but as soon as I get here I realise where I am. Praça do Comércio is a square in the middle of Lisbon that faces the river - it is known as the gateway to Lisbon. The view it gives you is unbeatable. Tourist sites actually recommend this as the starting point for discovering the city of Lisbon. It’s so scenic and prepares you for the long walks that you’'ll be doing around the city.
9. Spend all your £ in Sephora in Parque das Nações
Parque das Nações is the “modern” side of Lisbon. I go here to shop because of the Sephora - I know this has to be one of the best things about going to any European city, I am yearning for the day we get a Sephora in the UK. Aside from the shopping mall, there are also a couple of other things to do in Parque das Nações.
The aquarium is argued to be the best in Europe - it has five different tanks that represent the different oceans in the world. When we were younger, my mum made sure to bring my brother and I here every time we came to Lisbon.
There are also cable cars, the science museum, a garden and a casino - I am still yet to do any of this.
8. Finish off your shopping on Rua Augusta & Avenida da Liberdade (if you’re feeling boujee)
So it’s actually impossible to go to Lisbon and not walk down Rua Augusta. It stretches from Praça do Comércio all the way to Avenida Da Liberdade; full of shops, restaurants and bars. This is literally what Oxford Street and Regent Street need to be, no cars, just pedestrianised. Once you’ve finished on Rua Augusta, walk up onto Avenida da Liberdade and find yourself walking past Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Michael Kors, Dior, Versace, etc. This is actually where I stayed last March and I would wake up every morning feeling like a celeb seeing the Cartier store out of the window.
Family Recommendation: Mid shop, or once you’ve finished shopping head to Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau on Rua Augusta. Pasteis de Bacalhau are one of our favourite family snacks - similar to a saltfish fritter; they are made with cod, potato, onions, garlic and then fried to make them crispy. When asking our family for their top 10, our Auntie actually said “Omg they are top and you can get a class of port with it!” I can’t wait to go back to try them.
7. Go bar-hopping around Bairro Alto
So of course I had to run my top 10 ideas by my Portuguese cousins to make sure I was doing the city justice and when speaking about Bairro Alto, my cousin actually said “It's the place in downtown that has highest percentage of bars per square meter lmao”. Because of the small alleys and small restaurants, bar-hopping couldn’t be easier.
6. Take a day trip to Sintra
One of my aunties’ favourite places - Sintra. I will be shocked if you’ve googled things to do in Lisbon and a day trip to Sintra hasn’t been a top hit. Sintra is a town up in the hills (or mountains as I like to call them) that is home to palaces. Once you get there, I suggest getting in a tuk-tuk up to Palacio da Pena - which highly influenced the German castle that influenced Cinderella’s castle. Once you’ve enjoyed looking at the different palaces, walk over to Castelo dos Mouros (the Castle of The Moors) and follow the trail back down to the town centre. This walk down made our trip to Sintra - our singing/karaoke session definitely kept the other tourists entertained.
There are so many guided tour offers online, but it’s so easy to get here without any help. You can get a train straight into Sintra from Rossio in central Lisbon for around 4.50 euros and take the day as it comes - there is so much to do.
5. Have lunch at the Time Out Market
If you haven’t heard of Time Out when doing your Lisbon research, you’re missing out on VITAL information. The Time Out Market is home to 24 restaurants, some bars, shops, a cooking school and a music venue. I had lunch here twice on my holiday last March - one time my mum actually ate squid ink risotto, not for me but she throughly enjoyed it. If the weather is up to par, lunch outside at Balcão da Esquina with a glass of sangria is the best - the abacaxi at this place was AMAZING.
“If it’s good, it goes in the magazine, if it’s great, it goes into the market.”
4. Go and have a shot with the Grannies in Alfama
The oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon, full of cobbled streets, hills and amazing views. I can’t suggest anything other than getting lost in Alfama (and make sure you’re wearing comfy shoes because the walks are not a joke). Around every corner there is a cute little boutique, a Fado house and Grannies doing shots of Ginja - literally cherry firewater. If you do want some MUSTS then:
Miradouro das Portas do Sol & Miradouro de Santa Luzia for the views
Castelo de S. Jorge
Fado museum (because my mum would kill me if I didn’t add this in)
Fado house
Feira da Leidra - the “thieves:” market which takes place every Tuesday and Saturday. You will find any and everything here, however don’t expect to find the genies lamp because that ain’t happening. It’s something fun just to tick off of the list.
3. Segway around Belem
Everybody has heard of the “Portuguese custard tart” or a “Pastel de nata”, well Belem is the ultimate place to go to eat these - look for a small cafe called Pasteis de Belem. Made from a secret recipe dating back to 1837, these custard tarts are the number one tourist hit. The secret to skipping the queue is to literally just walk in and get a table at the back.
Once you’ve finished off your custard tart, head towards the river and you’ll find so many people renting out segways. Honestly, this is the best way to explore. Ride from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, up to the Belem Tower, round past Padrão dos Descobrimentos and back down the river. If the segway ride isn’t for you then walking down the river is just as picturesque.
2. Eat some Caldo Verde at A Merendeira in Costa da Caparica
How I miss this place. Before I was scared to cross the Ponte 25 de Abril this was my go to for breakfast, lunch and dinner. My family still talk about the Caldo Verde from this place - it is a classic Portuguese soup made from collard greens, potatoes and chorizo if you fancy it (obvs some sprinkles of seasonings too). This is the best thing after spending all day at the beach. Oh yea, the beach at Costa da Caparica is another one of our family’s favourites/recommendations.
Something that didn’t make the list but is definitely a top recommendation is the boat tours along the river - my mum LOVED this. You can find these at any tourist spot, especially around Belem and Cais do Sodre.
1. Spend the day in Estoril at the sea water pool
My dad actually found this pool on our last trip to Portugal. The Reverse Pool & Beach lounge saw my face everyday for a week. However, rather than paying double for a full day I would suggest spending your morning/early afternoon at Praia do Tamariz before walking up the steps to the pool. Only because their afternoon slots start at 2pm and who is paying for a full day when they are only getting to the beach at midday (I know some people head their from the morning but I am definitely still asleep at these times). The vibes, drinks and energy here is just unmatched and the pool is just perfect for families, young people and those who like to holiday by themselves.
Not too far from Estoril is one of my family’s favourite places to go - Cascais. It is known for it’s sandy beaches and popping marina; it was once known to be the most popular holiday destination for celebrities and I know why! The scenery is just picturesque - head to Boca do Inferno if you just want to stare out into the ocean and take in the views in peace. The beaches here are also to die for - so if Costa da Caparica isn’t your cup of tea, head west to Cascais!
Narrowing Lisbon down to 10 things to do was near impossible, I’m probably going to read this post tomorrow and realise that I’ve missed something or wished I’d replaced something with something else but I hope this has given you a heads start to one of my favourite cities in the world. My ultimate top tip - don’t forget your kicks when doing tourist days, and cute bikinis for lounging at the pool/beach with your glass of vino.